Friday, 5 August 2011

Monte Alban

we were surprised to learn this morning that yesterday afternoon there was a riot in the area of the zocalo, but still very close to our neighbourhood as well, as protesters were demonstrating . . . something . . . i’m not quite sure what . . . hoping to make their point during the president’s visit. unfortunately, they left a path of destruction along the way . . . spray paint on some of the walls of many of the beautiful colonial buildings, broken concrete in and around the zocalo where they must have used sledge hammers, and evidence of the spot where they lit a police car on fire. apparently, the police had to come in with full riot gear, hotels and shops were boarded shut, and they hurried people off the streets. would have been a little scary to be around at the time, I’m sure. the protesters were mainly from a particular teachers’ union and this is the same group that also caused trouble here in 2006. i can’t really comment, as i don’t fully understand the scope of the problems . . . i just wish these people could find a more peaceful way to resolve their issues.
our friends bonnie and dale will be arriving by bus from huatulco this evening to spend a few days with us. they have visited the city before and we have learned that they have already visited the ruins at monte alban which is one that we had earmarked before leaving home. so we decided today would be a good time to go. monte alban is considered to be one of the best ruin sites in mexico. after our bus trip to the market on sunday we figured we understood how to travel by bus in oaxaca . . . so we decided to go by bus. the central bus terminal is only about 10 blocks away so we set out on foot. in the searing 30 degree heat we really felt that we had accomplished something making it all the way without medical intervention . . . and of course no bus problems.
i spotted a bus with monte alban on the front, across the street, so we made our way thru the maze of buses. we checked with the driver, as best we could, to make sure this bus was taking us to the right place . . . to which he said `no problem` (I hate that phrase) . . . and that he would take us to within 2km of the entrance and another bus would take us the rest of the way. so, we climbed aboard . . . so far, no bus problems.
monte alban is on top of a mountain so we enjoyed the view on the way up although it was quite a climb on a twisting, turning and tope filled road. when our bus reached the end of its line the driver showed us where to wait for the bus that would take us the rest of the way . . . so far, no bus problems.
fortunately we had a covered shelter and a slight breeze so we enjoyed looking out at panoramic view of the city and the valley from the this mountainside perch. but, after about half an hour and no bus, we came to the conclusion that we now in fact . . . had a bus problem. just about the time we were thinking we would have to take one of the city buses back down and try again another way, a tour van came by and the driver very thankfully stopped and asked if we were trying to get to the ruins site. he explained that no buses went further than this spot after noon and of course it was now about 1pm. he was very nice, spoke english and happened to be going to pick up a pre-arranged fare. he made sure we knew where and when to catch the bus back down and the amount of the fare . . . and then, didn’t even charge us for the ride.
we have been most fortunate over the years to visit many beautiful and interesting places but monte alban is close to the top of my list. it is said to rank among the most regal and spectacular ruined cities. it sits on top of the mountain and has defences placed at every conceivable place that invaders might strike. even though there is no other flat area anywhere on the mountain these folks had a flat central courtyard about the size of 4 or 5 football fields. there is also evidence that they terraced the sides of the mountain to grow produce. the entire site is huge, i`m guessing many square miles. it is estimated this hilltop city was inhabited and ruled the valley from about 500bc to 750ad. over those centuries it was repeatedly re-constructed wih new walls, plazas, and staircases. it is a spectacular site. . . if you ever get a chance . . . be sure to visit.
after a delicious late afternoon lunch, we got our bus back down to the city . . . no more bus problems . . . and walked the 10 blocks home . . . very satisfied.

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